Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda: Savannah

First glimpse of the Victoria Nile (Source, Lake Victoria)

One fine morning last September, I found myself in the Ugandan Rift Valley, on 'Safari' at Murchison Falls National Park. "Finding" myself there had not been easy, it was a crazy eight hour drive from Kampala, followed by an evening Nile River crossing, to reach the Garden of Eden. 

Nile Crosing

And so I deem it to be, as the African Rift Valley is where our deepest ancestors came down from the trees of the receding forests and emerged onto the savannah.

Murchison Falls National Park, is named after the eponymous falls, contained within its boundaries. It is the oldest of Uganda's National Parks and is located on the last leg of the Victoria Nile, joining Lake Albert. The Nile bisects the park. Wildlife in MFNP is mostly concentrated on the Northern side of the Nile River, and tracks have been developed for visitors such as myself to view wildlife.    

The red earth of Uganda, and Acacia dotted savannah.

I appreciated that this park requires drivers to stay on the track. I was uncomfotable on a previous excursion to a private reserve in South Africa, where drivers used land cruisers to bulldoze through the terrain.

Elephants are not grey, because they 'bathe' in the red earth.

Oxpeckers flock to devour tasty elephant pests, and sometimes the elephant.
There is dispute as to whether this is a mutualistic or parasitic relationship.

An Oribi, a small antelope.

A closer look. Only the males have horns.

There are many Ungulates on the savannah. The Borassaus Palms in the distance
provide food for Elephants, and rely on elephants for seed distribution.

Hartebeest and termite mound. In Uganda, Harbeests are found only in MFNP.

Ugandan Kob

The Kob is Uganda's National Antelope.

Lion in wait for an Ungulate!

African Queen.

African Eagle

Out for a stroll..Lake Albert and the Congo in the background.
These are Rothschild Giraffes, an endangered species. Only a few hundred remain.

Hello!

Acacias are delicious!

I am not so pretty. African Buffalo

Borassus Palm and Cycads.

Francolins, not sure which species. I'm sure they know!

We continue towards Lake Albert Delta

Defassa Waterbuck. I hide in the water to escape predators.

Water Thick-Knee

Walk like an Egyptian Goose

African Wattled Lapwing. The largest African Plover.

The crowning achievement..the Grey Crowned Crane
Uganda's National Bird.

All this and more, thanks to my intrepid driver Noah (from Naturelink Safaris)
and charming MNFP guide Sarah.

Uganda has a great deal to offer the intrepid traveler, and saving what is left of this astounding biodiversity, depends largely upon tourist dollars. If ecological tourism can provide livings for the local population, there will be less pressure from subsistence hunting or clearing land for farming. Should you decide to travel to Uganda, check out http://www.naturelinksafaris.co.ug/. They are a small local tour group, reliable and honest, and they made our visit to Uganda special.

The heart of the wise man lies quiet like limpid water ~Buganda Proverb

Safari!

Our guide and spotter..note rifle in green case..
There was a slingshot too, in case we encountered Goliath

Safari? Or should I say wild rides in a Toyota Land Cruiser though the Bush Veldt of the Thornybush Preserve? No land untouched by the hand of man..but enticing and thrilling, none the less.

 

Why it is the "Thornybush" Preserve..Acacia genus

The mission of the guide and spotter was for us tourists to see as many animals as possible..and so we made our break neck way..Scenery shots, unless otherwise noted were taken with a Coolpix whilst hanging out of a moving vehicle..

 

Elephants were ubiquitous, and I would say we spent the most time viewing them..

Scenery shot..

Grasses were of major importance and
fed most of the animals we saw

Elephants and Impala taken from Simbambili Lodge deck

Closer look at Impala

Lascaux Cave painting..

We stop now for a bird. Birding was not on the menu, but our guide was a self-professed "twitcher" so would occasionally slow down for birds..of which there were many..birding in Africa is  now on my bucket list..

Ground Horbill not on the ground. Endangered

Looking for birds?

I feel pretty

Leaving now..

We pause for a Gray Curve Bill..plentiful

And a Zebra

Who do the Kudu that you do so well? (with Egyptian Goose)

The Happy Hippo..munched its way across the field
in front of the main lodge

While a Black Headed Oriole enjoyed a snack..

Hippos enjoying a swim..



Two-fer..Mammal & bird. Cape Buffalo and Ox Pecker,
a commensal tick eater.

The birds are also said to warn the buffalo of danger

There was a whole herd of the buffalo crossing the road..we watched for quite awhile, the white under the eyes is from the ears flapping off insects.

Lilac-Breasted Roller



Crested Francolin

Rhino poaching for the "magic" horn is a serious problem



The animals were surprisingly nonchalant about the Land Cruisers..they do not see them as a threat & the diesel smells mask the human odors..They would react differently if we stood up, or walked around..so we had to remain seated at all times..

Here kitty kitty..that is a land cruiser tire behind her..

The land cruisers really do..when the guide wanted to we ran down the "bush", small trees included..I had mixed feelings about that..

But that is how we sat next to the same Leopard
 who lay down next to the cruiser & fell asleep.

Yes, those spots belong to a pair of Cheetahs. We were very far away.
 It was the first time Cheetahs had been spotted in seven months.

There were two "game drives" every day. In the morning we stopped midway for coffee, in the evening at sunset for wine.

The only sunset where I was not flying along in the cruiser.
Before sips of wine..

 After sunset the spotter literally swept the "bush" with a spotlight to see what we could find.

You woke me up!

We saw Lions only at night, and I preferred the moodiness of this non-flash picture, even if poorly exposed..

 

Who tells a finer tale than any of us. Silence does ~Isac Dinesen (Out of Africa)